Following my last post about the “THE MANNHEIM HERITAGE OF WORLD CULTURES”, I am going to further explore the heritagization of food and food culture through my little research on a delicious pastry – Baumkuchen from the Herrdegen Confectionery in Mannheim, which is selected as the Japanese cultural heritage on the list of the Mannheim heritage of world cultures. I was very lucky to be able to get in touch and do an interview with the presenter of Baumkuchen at the exhibition, Mr. Fred Wallbrecht. Mr. Fred Wallbrecht is a German teacher in the Goethe-Institut Mannheim. His father is from Germany and his mother is from Japan. Born and raised in Germany, he will visit Japan once in a while.
Well, before we look into the interesting interview, shall we have a history class first? The history of Baumkuchen is actually one of the aspects which attracts me to choose Baumkuchen as my subject of research and which also has a huge influence on the selection process of this cake as Japanese cultural heritage in Mannheim. Most importantly, there is the magical bond I talked about in my first post.
Baumkuchen (in German), which literally translates to “Tree Cake” is a German variety of spit cake, a -traditional pastry of many European countries throughout, and also a popular snack and dessert in Japan. But why in Japan? Baumkuchen was introduced by a German confectioner Karl Juchheim, who baked the first Baumkuchen at an exhibition in Hiroshima, Japan in 1919. Born in Kaub am Rhein in Southern Germany in 1886, he was employed at a pastry and coffee shop operated by Sietas, Plambeck & Co. in Tsingtao of China, which was then a territory leased by Germany. Unfortunately, the First World War broke out, Tsingtao became occupied by the Japanese Army, and Karl was taken by force to Japan, where he was imprisoned in Hiroshima. Although Karl had gone through a lot of hardships in Japan, he decided to stay in Japan and work hard with his wife on his pastry business, which has been proven to be a huge success in Japan. Today, the most famous company which sells Baumkuchen in Japan is Juchheim’s, named after Karl Juchheim and established by his former employee in Kobe. (To find out more about the stories of Karl Juchheim and Baumkuchen in Japan: https://www.juchheim.co.jp/english/story/. )
Lin: So can you tell me something about the process of how they (the organisers of the exhibition) found you and contacted you?
Wallbrecht: Well, it’s very simple. Goethe Institute. They asked me. I think they asked the director of the Goethe (Institute) if they knew somebody who is related to Japan and then he asked me. One of the sponsors knows me and asked me: “Fred, can you do something? What? No clue, no ideas…
Lin: About the Baumkuchen – do you have any interesting stories in relation to the cake which you can tell me about?
Wallbrecht: Well, it’s a very funny thing, basically, that Baumkuchen is such a popular cake in Japan. I think it is totally crazy. Because in Germany, not everybody knows it. While in Japan, almost everybody knows it. But in Japan, as they always do, they made the whole idea (of the cake differently). So if you but a Baumkuchen in Japan, it’s like buying a space food. It’s vacuumed, clean… I don’t know. Maybe it’s the climate. It’s not like in here you buy a cake in Aldi. They have a special package in Japan. You have to open it with a knife.
Lin: So it’s very different.
Wallbrecht: Sophisticated. It’s not high-end, but it’s quite premium. And when I first saw that (in Japan), I was like “what is that”! First of all, this one. And second, Japanese people like to wrap up everything. They put it into a special paper, and on the paper, (there) are the colours of the german flag before the german emperor was kicked out of the country. It’s the old german flag. So the colours were red, white and black, if you are familiar with german history. It’s very funny to see a Baumkuchen in Japan with a german flag on it.
L: Do you often eat Baumkuchen or would you just eat it in a special occasion?
W: Well, it’s not a daily cake. No. It’s a special for presents, but most often, they either give it or receive it. But on a daily basis, they don’t eat it. But I know that some people who go to Juchheim and buy regularly every month or every two weeks. There are also people who are addicted to the cake.
L: So according to what you just said, would you think that in Germany, Baumkuchen is not so fancy as the people in Japan think?
W: Yes. In Germany, Baumkuchen is even less than normal. There are people (in Germany) who don’t know Baumkuchen. It became very famous in Japan, in several regions in Germany, I think. In certain regions in Germany, Baumkuchen is more a local thing or seasonal thing. For example, during Christmas, you find Baumkuchen in supermarkets like Aldi, but in summer time, no Baumkuchen at all.
L: So what do you think is the reason why the Japanese people consider the Baumkuchen more sophisticated or high-end?
W: I think it’s similar as (the situation) in China. For (some) Japanese, things from Germany are considered more sophisticated. Italian things as well. This is one reason. Other thing is, Japanese people don’t like too creamy cake. They like it more low-calb… you know, something healthier. And the Baumkuchen has less calories. And in Japan, you can see Baumkuchen every time during the year, not just Christmas. And the third thing I would say, in the past, many Japanese people learned German. The Japanese introduced a lot of new systems from the West, especially Germany, in the country. The kids from the university studied medicine or other subjects in German. So Baumkuchen is easy for them to understand.
L: Are there any special meanings in Baumkuchen? Is there a specific meaning or is it just because of the appearance why it is called the tree cake?
W: Appearance. And it’s round.
L: Can you tell me the process of selecting this object to exhibit in the Austellung (Exhibition)?
W: Actually, I had no idea what to pick up. I mean, heritage? between two cultures? And first of all, I thought of this particular store in our neighbourhood that sells Japanese stuff as well. Then, I received a newsletter from the “Deutsch-Japanischen Gesellschaft” (German-Japanese Community) in Mannheim. They are having a get-together every month. They send me the newsletter every month. In one of those letters, they referred that once they had a farewell party for a member of the community. They went to the confectionary Herrdegen. And I think: well, it makes sense that they go there because there are fancy cakes and of course there is Baumkuchen. And I have this information on my mind. Then I thought, ok, since I didn’t have any better alternative. Ok, let’s say Baumkuchen. For me, it perfectly makes sense that they go there for farewell party because whenever a member of the community moves back to Japan or from Mannheim to elsewhere, they go to Cafe Herrdegen. And then I made a proposal to the organisers of the exhibition and they approved it and chose Baumkuchen!
L: Is the history of Baumkuchen – the connection between Germany and Japan also one of the reasons why you chose it?
W: yeah, I mean, Baumkuchen is famous in Japan, but also quite famous in Mannheim. So this connection is definitely one of the reasons.
L: So the Cafe Herrdegen is very famous in Mannheim?
W: I would say so. Yes. It is funny that in every city in Germany, especially in college town, there are famous cafes. I have lived in Goettingen. In Goettingen there is Cron & Lanz. In Tuebingen there is Schöne Aussichten. I don’t know if there is any in Heidelberg. Not just because of the Baumkuchen.
L: Is the Cafe Herrdegen the only place in Mannheim that makes and sells Baumkuchen?
W: Good question! I am not 100% sure. But I would say it is one of the most famous spot for eating Baumkuchen.
L: How does the cafe mean for you and the Japanese community in Mannheim?
W: As I said, the Gesellschaft have their farewell parties there. So it definitely has some special meanings for them. I went there with my parents as well. Herrdegen is a good place. I wouldn’t say its top of the top! But it is a good place to have coffee and pastry.
L: Did you chose the Baumkuchen as an object or also as a ritual thing, for example, the tradition of biding farewell to the people?
W: Both. Look, I have lived in Japan. It was the time before the Internet. So if you live very very far from your home country, and then if you see or taste sth which is related to your home or reminds you of your home land, you are flashed. So Baumkuchen is something that not disconnect you from your home country. I had this experience.
L: Is it very difficult to make a Baumkuchen?
W: yes.
L: So it needs a lot of techniques?
W: Yes, because this form of the cake is hard to make it at home. I mean you can make the same taste at home but the cake will be flat. It is almost impossible to make the round shape at home because you need the technique and special equipments to make that.
L: Do you know someone who can make it?
W: Yeah, a friend of mine gave me a recipe but I never made it. I should have done it! And Matti (one of the organiser of the exhibition) told me to bring the cake to the international food event. Next time I’ll try. Next challenge!
L: Is there any influence after showcasing this part of Japanese culture during the exhibition?
W: Yes! The Cafe. They should give me free Baumkuchen in my lifetime! (Kidding) They sell more Baumkuchen, definitely. Good question! The organisers told me: all the people went there. German people…you can read emotions on their face. Last time I went there I asked them and they are all “Baumkuchen”! The reactions of people are different after the exhibition. Because I think, during the exhibition, Matti and Asma went there and they were making Baumkuchen. As what I have told you, Baumkuchen is more a seasonal thing, in winter time. This exhibition is in spring time, which therefore is normally not a Baumkuchen time. So they have to make cake in advance, they don’t make it on daily basis. They make it and wrap it up and then you can eat it for almost six weeks. But after the exhibition, due to the fact that there are more people wanting to buy, so they have to increase the production. That’s what I assume, I am not sure. I mean, the whole window is full of Baumkuchen now. And in the past, Baumkuchen was just one or two in the corner in the show window. This is one thing, the other thing is that people keep asking me, why Baumkuchen? They were surprised. They think I might present Sushi or Sashimi or something that is more common. I was always thinking about the bridge between Mannheim, Germany and Japan.
L: So how do you feel that the Baumkuchen is now considered as the world cultural heritage in the city of Mannheim?
W: Funny. It’s funny. I mean, You have to think twice. and You have to think around the corner. It’s not a most direct item you would think of. But the fact that they (the organisers) accepted it and people even agreed with my “stupid” idea, its kind of funny.
L: Do you think it gives the Baumkuchen another layer of value now that it is heritage? For example, a branding effect for the sign they put in the window?
W: German would not care whether it is a big issue in Japan. They would just care whether it is tasty or not. The history or the linkage to it doesn’t matter that much. Branding is not a big issue or deal for German people. They are not so value-oriented. In some sense yes, but in terms of Baumkuchen not really. But I think the fact that the cafe put out the sign means that they are also a little bit proud of it. Marketing is also an important factor.
L: Are there any more positive influences in terms of more people learning more about the Japanese culture in this way?
W: At least the people who come to the exhibition and event and read the catalogue or website… Yes. But there are limited numbers. With my experience, many other Germans who go to japan would also found out that Baumkuchen is a big deal in Japan. From that experience they also learn the culture.
(Interview conducted by Jing Lin, with Fred Wallbrecht, recorded at aorund 2 pm on 18/08/2017, in Cafe Macaronnerie, Heidelberg. There are some slight changes and deletion in the contents. )
From this interview, I discovered so much more interesting stories behind the process of selecting Baumkuchen as the Japanese cultural heritage in Mannheim. It is very intriguing that the bond of the cake between Germany and Japan in the history plays such an essential role in the selection and also in the exhibition. The impacts of the heritagization of food and food culture are also reflected economically and socially through this interview. Moreover, the intangible part of Baumkuchen as heritage – (the Japanese community biding farewell in Cafe Herrdegen) further illustrates the significance of considering food as an evolving and living cultural heritage. Of course, how we view food as cultural heritage can be very different. Hopefully, this interview would help you gain some new perspectives to view this.
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